This Under-the-radar Mountain in Quebec Features Great Views, Off-piste Skiing, and Amazing Food

The word for incredible in French is incroyable. And that's exactly how you'll feel when speeding down the highest vertical drop east of the Canadian Rockies with a view of the St. Lawrence River unfolding below you.

Quebec's Le Massif de Charlevoix is everything you'd want in a mountain escape with the added benefit of being less crowded than some of its nearby counterparts. It's close to major cities yet feels worlds away thanks to the mountain's unique layout. As a bonus, it also has a passionate culinary team focused on bringing locally sourced French-Canadian food to the masses.

The luxurious Club Med Quebec Charlevoix, which opened in 2021, has brought more attention to the lesser-known peak, but there's still time to be among the early birds to ski it.

"It's really a feeling. It's about the moment of being immersed in beauty and nature. It's this endless terrain that takes you from great heights down to the water's edge," says Maude Barrette Desjardins, the communications and marketing director for Le Massif. "It's about freedom, and it's about reconnecting with nature."

Located about an hour from Quebec City, the mountain boasts more than 400 skiable acres with breathtaking views of the St. Lawrence River from nearly every run. But wait, this is the cool part: most skiers and riders arrive at the top of the mountain rather than the base, ensuring they can rip right down without having to wait in line for a lift first.

Whether you're a first-time skier or an experienced powder hound looking to escape the crowds, here's how to plan a ski trip to Le Massif de Charlevoix.

When to Go

Le Massif de Charlevoix's ski season typically runs from early December to late April. The mountain receives an average of 254 inches of snowfall per year; for the best conditions, visit during January, February, or March. While the resort hosts events throughout the winter and spring, the biggest festival is the Massif Open in March, a celebration featuring skiing competitions, costumes, and all-night parties with live music.

Where to Stay

Club Med Quebec Charlevoix

Walk right out to the slopes at the ski-in, ski-out Club Med Quebec Charlevoix, the company's first all-inclusive ski resort in Canada. After a day on the mountain, relax at the Club Med Spa by Sothys or enjoy dinner in one of the resort's three restaurants.

Les Refuges

Bigger groups may want to book one of the small homes at Les Refuges. Perfect for four to six people, each chalet features a modern, streamlined design with a cozy fireplace and kitchen (with a fondue pot, of course).

Hôtel & Spa Le Germain Charlevoix

Located in the charming town of Baie-Saint-Paul, about a 20-minute drive from the mountain, Hôtel & Spa Le Germain Charlevoix is ideal for travelers looking to explore nearby art galleries, restaurants, and shops. The 145-room hotel is set on a farm estate with a restaurant, spa, and railway station, which makes it extra convenient for those arriving by train from Quebec City.

Where to Eat

Restauration Summit Chalet

Take a break from the slopes with an on-mountain lunch at Restauration Summit Chalet. Order a hearty celeriac, porchetta, and provolone sandwich, tuck into a plate of osso buco pork Milanese, or warm up with a bowl of French onion soup made with Hercule de Charlevoix cheese.

Ah La Vache

In the evening, head to Ah La Vache in Baie-Saint-Paul to order a classic fondue served in a loaf to take away. The eatery is run by a couple from Switzerland who have brought their love of melted cheese and raclette to Quebec, so you can expect authentic fare.

Le Saint-Pub

If you're in the mood for craft beer and comfort food, venture down the street from Ah La Vache to Le Saint-Pub. The gastropub at MicroBrasserie Charlevoix, which started brewing Belgian-style beer in 1998, offers a range of Quebec specialties, including poutine, smoked meat sandwiches, and pouding chômeur (a fluffy cake soaked in maple syrup).

Where to Après-ski

Le Grand Duc

Party the late afternoon away at Le Grand Duc, a pub that sits on the mountain's summit and boasts a lively atmosphere with special events and a DJ every Friday and Saturday. The bar has a great selection of Quebec-made beer and spirits.

Off-mountain Activities

After a day of skiing and riding, visitors can continue the fun at Le Massif's traditional sledding run, which extends more than 4.6 miles. Don a headlamp and a helmet and head up to the top of the trail by snowcat (or snowshoes). Then, speed down for a two-hour nighttime adrenaline rush. You can thaw out midway at a conveniently placed chalet. Other activities in the area include yoga and fitness classes at Club Med (day passes are available) and a network of cross-country skiing trails with forest and river scenery.

How to Ride

Tickets

Single-, half-, and multiday lift tickets can be purchased on Le Massif's website. Prices vary, depending on the day of the week, but start at around the Canadian dollar equivalent of $90 for a full day. To reduce waiting times at lifts, the resort limits the number of daily visitors, so purchase your tickets well in advance.

Rentals

Ski and snowboard equipment is available to rent from the Summit Chalet on a first come, first served basis. The shop offers a selection of powder skis, telemark skis, cross-country skis, and snowboards, as well as accessories like helmets and poles.

Skiing and Snowboarding Info

Le Massif's ski area has more than 53 trails, including about a dozen easy green runs, nearly 20 intermediate blue runs, and the rest falling into the advanced black or double black categories. The mountain is serviced by nine lifts, including the Massif Express gondola, high-speed chairlifts, and magic carpets.

Programming

The resort's Snow School offers private, semi-private, and group lessons to skiers and snowboarders of all abilities. Packages for beginners include lift tickets, instruction, and equipment. For more experienced skiers and riders, backcountry lessons can be a fun way to dabble in going off-piste. Families staying longer than a week may want to take advantage of the multiday ski camps for kids ages three to 17. Meanwhile, seasonal training programs for adults focus on everything from tackling moguls to powder.